Soak dried black mushrooms in boiling-hot water for 30 minutes, reserving the liquid.

Cut out and discard stems from mushrooms and cut caps into 1-inch wedges.

Soak bean curd skins in boiling-hot water for 30 minutes until softened.

Trim and slice fresh bamboo shoots, then boil twice for 2 minutes each time.

Soak bean thread noodles in cold water for 5 minutes.

Drain and cut bean curd skins into 1-inch pieces.

Slice tofu into 1/2-inch-thick slices.

Heat peanut oil in a pot over moderate heat.

Add ginger and garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Add mushrooms, bean curd skins, bamboo, and ginkgo nuts and cook for 2 minutes.

Stir in oyster sauce, soy sauce, rice wine, and sugar and simmer for 1 minute.

Add reserved mushroom-soaking liquid and bring to a boil.

Gently stir in tofu and soybean sprouts, then reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes.

Gently stir in noodles and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes.

Add romaine hearts and simmer, covered, until tender, about 5 minutes.