Rinse chicken and set aside to drain.

Put coriander seeds and cloves in a dry 6- to 8-qt. pressure cooker. Toast over medium heat until fragrant, shaking, several minutes.

Add onion and ginger and cook, stirring, until browned on edges, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add 4 cups water, then the chicken, breast side up.

Add apple, cilantro sprigs, salt, and another 4 cups water.

Lock the lid in place and bring to low pressure (8 psi) over high heat, following your cooker's instructions.

Lower heat to maintain pressure and cook 15 minutes (or longer if needed). If using high-pressure setting (15 psi), cook 12 minutes.

While broth cooks, soak noodles in hot tap water until pliable and opaque, about 10 minutes.

Drain, rinse, and drain noodles well. Divide among four large soup bowls.

When broth is done, lift cooker to a cool burner and let pressure decrease until pressure indicator drops, about 20 minutes. Remove lid.

Let cool 5 minutes, then use tongs to transfer chicken to a bowl. Add cold water to cover, then soak 10 minutes to cool.

Pour off water, partially cover chicken, and set aside to finish cooling.

With a shallow ladle, skim most of fat from broth.

Strain broth through a muslin- or cheesecloth-lined strainer into a medium pot, pressing to expel as much broth as possible. Discard solids.

Season broth with fish sauce, plus salt and sugar to taste.

Bring broth to a simmer over medium heat.

Fill a medium pot with water and bring to a rolling boil for noodles.

Meanwhile, prepare your pho assembly line: Slice breasts and legs from chicken; set aside half for another use. Cut or tear breast and leg meat into 1/4-in. slices or shreds and put in a bowl.

Put red onion, green onion, cilantro, and pepper in separate small bowls. Set out the bowls of soaked noodles.

When water is boiling, dunk the first bowl's noodles into a noodle strainer or other small mesh strainer, stirring noodles with chopsticks or a fork to loosen them, until they're soft, 20 to 40 seconds.

Pull strainer of noodles from water, shaking to drain into pot, and empty into the soup bowl. Top with chicken.

Add red onion, green onion, cilantro, and a sprinkle of pepper.

Taste broth once more and season with fish sauce, salt, and/or sugar if needed. Divide among bowls.

Serve immediately, with Garnish Plate and Ginger Dipping Sauce.