Finely chop 2 garlic cloves.

Chop 2/3 cup of mixed tender herbs (parsley, mint, chives, and/or cilantro).

Combine garlic, herbs, 1 tablespoon kosher salt, 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, and 4 cups all-purpose flour in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with dough hook.

Combine 1 teaspoon sugar and 1 1/3 cups warm (105°F-110°F) water in a small bowl.

Sprinkle 1 (1/4-ounce) envelope active dry yeast (about 2 1/4 teaspoons) over water and let sit until foamy (8-10 minutes).

Stir in 2/3 cup buttermilk into the yeast mixture.

Add the buttermilk mixture to dry ingredients and mix on medium speed until a smooth, wet dough forms (5-7 minutes).

Transfer dough to a lightly oiled large bowl.

Cover with plastic wrap and chill until at least doubled in size (12-24 hours).

If the dough hasn't quite doubled, let sit at room temperature for 30-60 minutes.

Gently punch down dough and turn out onto a very well-floured surface.

Portion into four 3"-4"-diameter balls.

Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise until pillowy and springy to the touch (30-45 minutes).

Prepare a grill for medium-high, indirect heat.

Lightly oil the grate.

Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, gently stretch to about a 10x8" oval.

Grill over direct heat, turning and rotating as needed, until bread is stiff and both sides are lightly charred (about 3 minutes total).

Move to indirect heat to keep warm while you grill the remaining piece of dough.